1 Rhine line = 2.179 mm, 1 Viennese line = 2.195 mm, 1 English or Russian line -
2.116 mm (Meyer 1877, p. 840).
Basically, the sizes of the Unger chart - especially the one showing the faceted beads - are
identical with the measurements listed by Kleinert (see below) for press-molded beads
(diameter of the null-bead: 2 lines = 4.50 mm). Deviations can be observed among the
blown beads (series Q, in certain areas between one and ten! tenths of a millimeter larger),
with the coral beads and coral olives (series L, P, larger!). It is worth noting that the olive
beads were apparently supposed to be measured differently; while the size of satin olives
are based on diameter, the garnet olives and the coral olives are measured according to
length (series K, series P: as a whole somewhat larger).
The diameter of faceted beads is easier to measure the finer they are cut; 3-cut beads or
irregularly cut beads made an exact measurement more difficult. Therefore one must
reckon with certain tolerances amounting to as much as several tenths of a millimeter.
Divided into bead types, the Unger chart includes the following sizes:
A - Glass beads ä 3 facets: 0-12
C - Lapis lazuli beads ä 3 facets: 0-12
D - Glass beads ä 5 facets: 0-12
E - Fine composition beads, ruby: 0-12
F - Fine composition beads, garnet: 0-12
H - Extra fine glass beads: 2-5, 7, 8, 10-13, 16, 22
K - Garnet olives: 4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 0-9
L - Coral beads: 2-13
M - Wrapped satin beads: 9-17
N - Satin beads: 5, 7-13, 17
O - Satin olives: 3-5, 7-12
P - Fine coral olives: 0-11
Q - Silver or gold beads: 4-7, 10, 13, 15,20, 22, 24
Bead samples in graduated sizes from 4/0, 3/0, 2/0 to 15 are contained in a different
collection (this time in book form) by Unger, Liebenau (ill.42, p. 82). Apparently several
mistakes occurred in stringing the beads, since numbers 6 and 7 of the blue faceted beads
appear to have been switched and the numbers 12-14 are practically the same size, the red
faceted beads are accurately assigned to sizes. Taking these apparent mistakes into
account, an assumed graduated System produces averages that correspond approximately
to those of Kleinert. ......
Cut beads in the number-sizes from 000 to 15 are shown on a sample card from Hellmich
(Wolfersdorf), which can probably be placed in the last quarter of the 19th Century (ill.45,
p 85) The intermediary sizes, 0 V2 and 1 V2, were even used here. These number sizes are
not the same as those of Unger or Kleinert: the “null-bead” - normally one with a diameter of
2 lines (= 4 50 mm) - from Hellmich measures about 1.40 mm, that is, less than a third of
the size of the Unger bead. The Situation becomes even more confusing with the
Observation that the Hellmich null-bead does approximately have the aforementioned
1.40 mm diameter in garnet beads, but not in black beads which measure about 1.90 to
Blown, drawn and press-molded beads naturally did not achieve the miniscule size no. 20/0
of pea'rls, but could go up to the impressive size of no. 24.
Unfortunately, one sample card of blown beads, listed in the inventory as a small sample
card with white, blown glass beads in 19 sizes. unknown" (ill. 225, p. 273) is not as clear
about its provenence as the chart from Gablonz. Blown bead production was widespread,
so that a subsequent regional assignment seems very problematical. The numbered beads
diminishing in size from 1 to 19, have the following measurements in millimeters, although
one must take into account that the beads strung in a row and labelled with a number, can
often differ from one another in size by as much as 10 millimeters.
100
