not to mention beads made from other materials (wood, celluloid, Galalith).
Verbal distortions like the “Couppe Bead” (presumably coupe) or “Crackles” (=craquele)
sometimes disclose the origins of a bead, although occasionally the term
remains a puzzle. We know that the so-called real gold beads are not made of gold,
but of glass with a gold lining. It is likely that a similar Situation applies to the “genuine
platinum” beads and the “genuine baroque” pearls. In connection with glass beads, the
meaning is clear; when the term is transferred to a different area (e.g. the metal
branch), the door is wide open to misunderstandings.
A mention of the needle work magazines of the 19th Century also seems to me to be
important (Allgemeine Muster-Zeitung and Bazar). Here a bead terminology is found
that probably corresponded more to general usage than the glass technology did.
“Bohemian” beads were understood to be the short, cylindrical pieces of glass tubes
that were broken off and that were also known, somewhat mistakenly, under the name
“chopped bits” (Hackebissel). “Spindles” were long, cylindrical tubes; in Bazar, “gold
spindles (long yellow silver-lined beads)” were mentioned, as were “white-metalized
spindles, crystal spindles (long beads).’’ Among the “seed beads” (probably small
rounded beads and bugles), “black, long, short white and bronze-colored seed beads”
were mentioned.
“Pound beads (weight beads)” and “big pound beads” were named for their weight;
their amounts were often given in lots (half-ounce units). On the other hand, the
amounts needed for a specific piece of work are given in bunches or bundles, and the
term, bündle bead, probably goes back to this, just as the expression string beads
refers to the way they were sold commercially: “fine red string beads, bronze-colored
string beads, small string beads in white” (so-called “morning-ray beads.")
The term, “foam beads (oval foam beads, golden foam beads, black foam beads,
bronzed foam beads),”is still unclear. Presumably, they were not glass beads, but the
thin-walled, very light-weight metal beads known from jewelry-making in the
Biedermeier period. In the Allgemeine Muster-Zeitung, foam beads which look like
Steel are mentioned. In one place all the aforementioned foam or copper beads are
listed under metal beads (Allgemeine Muster-Zeitung 1864, p. 13). Also unclear are
the many terms using words from the realm of metals: “Steel beads, gold beads,
copper beads, quicksilver beads (elongated quicksilver beads, tapering funnel-shaped
quicksilver beads).” In the language of hollow glass blowers, the gold bead is a goldlined
glass bead. With this in mind it might be possible to connect the so-called
quicksilver bead with the marcasite bead, whose “mirror-coating” may have consisted
of mercury, among other things. We can never be entirely certain that in certain
connections, “metal bead” actually means one made of metal or one of glass made to
look like metal.
In the Allgemeine Muster Zeitung, instructions are given for making a lamp collar:
“Bohemian beads” in three colors are required for it, “namely 4 strings of silver lined,
2 strings of gold lined,” which are later referred to as gold beads and silver beads
(Allgemeine Muster Zeitung 1864, p. 13). Most likely, what was meant were silver and
gold lined beads, although we most certainly may not carry this conclusion over to all
other situations. We also find mention of metalized beads (silvered beads), metalized
Bohemian beads and bronze-colored glass beads. Less frequently mentioned are
“orange-yellow porcelain beads” (Bazar 1873), “white seed beads, blue iridescent
beads” (Bazar 1886), “facet-like cut crystal discs (flat beads), pitted beads, over-spun
beads or fagon beads;”very frequent, however, are “Atlas beads”.
Two types came under the heading, bead mosaic: staggered or lined up in straight
rows.
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