148 
Catalogtte of the British Section. 
JEWELLERY WoRN BY WOMEN. 
1. Ear Ornament, “ Vaaly.” The Tamil women, except the Brahmin dass, and 
peop e rom India and their descendants, wear this on ordinary occasions ; the upper 
parts °f the ears are perforated in such a way as to receive the joints of the two pieces 
ot Vaaly, and keep the Ornament in a vertical position. 
2. Five pairs of Earrings.—See explanation given for 1 and 3. 
3. Ear Ornament, “ Kathuppu,” worn in the ear, in the same hole in which earrings 
are worn, but this Ornament Stands over the earrings. 
4. Nose Ornament, “ Mookuttie,” in a bore on the left side end of the nose. 
v. S \u 11 u 6 ’ “ Karisamany.” Several kinds of necklaces are worn by women, 
above the collar bone ; but this is worn around the upper part of the neck. 
6. A Xecklace, “ Thaddumany,” worn below “ Karisamany.” 
• 4 8 j A ^f, C T k - la< : e ’ “ Maniaddial,” worn as an addition to “ Karisamany,” and sometimes 
dumanv ” Kan samany,. but its place is between the “ Karisamany ” and “ Thad- 
9. Wedding Necklace “Thaly” and “Charadoo,” worn by women from the day of 
marriage dunng the hfe of their husbands. The meaning of the “Thalv” differs in 
object from that of wedding-nng of other nations ; the Tamil women wear it'as a sacred 
mark to distinguish themselves from unmarried women and widows. “Thaly” is the 
front 80 ^ ° rnament in the middl eof the gold string “ Charadoo,” which is worn in 
I0 ’ i! i !- e , r Ar , m ; rin §:’ “Kadasam bangles worn on the arm near the wrist. 
12. Valayal, worn as above—four on each arm. 
13. Finger-nngs, worn on the index finger, ring-finger, and little finger of the left 
hand—from two to four rings on each finger. 
’f-Kaal Motheram,” or toe-rings, worn one on each of the four toes of both fe 
except the big toe. 
15. Five-stringed beads, worn round the neck to hang over the breast, the shortest 
string near about the collar bone. 
16. Two-stringed beads “Larye,” worn beneath the five Strings. 
17. Hair-pins. 
The colour of these jeweis is not the natural colour of gold. The Tamils, being 
dissatisfied with its natural colour, give it an artificial one. The ingredients and the 
process employed for fixing the colour are the followingAfter the jewel is made and 
completed it is heated, and then put into a solution of salt. The quantity of water used 
for the solution is just sufficient to cover the jewel. The gold then turns white, and is 
cleaned by rubbing it with soft white sand. The jewel is then put into a solution, com- 
posed of salt and alum in equal quantities, and in alum and saltpetre twice as much, and is 
treated tili the whole solution is evaporated and slightly heated, when it assumes a yellow 
colour It is then dipped in water, and cleaned with soft white sand, and again heated 
in the last-named solution ; cleaned with sand and polished. 
r This colounng is further carned on as follows :—A solution is made of acid of Gor^a 
fruit or I amarind, and a very shght quantity of brimstone, and what remains of the last 
solution, or rather its dregs, after evaporation, and heated. When the solution begins to 
boil, the jewel is put into it, and moved about until the desired colour is obtained. 
The sijyer jeweis also admit of colouring. The process is nearly the same as in 
the case of the gold, but the use of brimstone is avoided, and they are principallv 
dipped in a solution of lime. r 3 
In ancient times there were distinctions as to what jeweis certain classes of people 
s ould wear, and what classes should not, and also as to town fashion and country 
fashion ; but they are now worn indiscriminately by all classes of the people, and by the 
people of all distncts. J