144
No. 460. “ Hutheewith stand. Dharwar.
Used when spinning spools for tlie shuttle.
Government of Bombay.
467. “Modeej” in three pieces. Dharwar.
For making up hanks of thread for “ kunkees
or small reels for weaving. The two blocks of
wood are placed at a proper distance apart.
The thread is then arranged round the pegs
of one block to those of the other, and then
wound off on to the third part, whieh is a
“ huthee ” or hand-reel.
459. “Assara;” for winding twist. Khandeish.
For arranging thread in hanks or skein.
Scale of one-half.
452. “ Tanvat.” Poona.
For making up large hanks or skeins of twist
for sale.
456. “Wuttee.” Rope-makingmachine. Dharwar.
465. “Koonchee.” Weaver’s brush.
Weaver’s brush, full size. Used along the
twist or warp stretched on the “ hoodiathur
or “ tiotee ” for removing dust, smoothing and
arranging the threads, and eqnally distributing
the size which has just been applied.
468-470. Models of the hand-looms, “ Mag,” in use
in Surat, Khandeish, and Sind.
H. H. the Rao of Kutch, G.C.S.I.
451, 466. Machines for spinning and weaving, from
Kutch.
Samples of Materials used for Dyeing.
Collector of Etawah, N.W. Provinces.
517-531. “ Kussoom ” (carthamus tinctorius),
“ Hurra ” myrobalans, “ Har singar” (flowers of
weeping nyctanthes), “ Kussees ” (sulphus ferrse),
“ Majoophul ” (gall nuts), “Dhak” (flowers of
butea frondosa), “Anar” (pomegranate rind),
“ Huldee ” (turmeric), Sujjee (mineral alkali),
“ Nil ” (indigo,“ Russee ” (saline efflorescence from
the earth, “ Mooltanee mittee ” (yellow ochre),
“ Gerroo ” (red ochre), “Sootea” (blue vitriol),
“ Kutha.”
532. Specimens of colours (26), produced from the
above.
Collector of Cawnpore, N.W. Provinces.
533. “ Aal ” root. Used for dyeing cloth.
Berar Local Committee.
534. Samples of dyes (5); used in Berar.
Dr. Bhau Daji, Bombay.
535. Four boxes of dyes. Used in the Western
Presidency.
Dr. Bhau Daji furnishes the following notes
on dyeing substances and processes as used and
practised in Western India :—
The art of dyeing is in its infancy in this
country. It is rudely practised, and is
capable of much improvement. The colours
imparted are of great variety, but they are
generally not permanent. This is owing to
the sad want of Chemical knowledge. The
mordant principally used is alum ; the use of
the salts of tin and lead is entirely unknown
to native dyers. All the shades of red, from
scarlet downwards, produced from safflower are
not permanent, from there being no mordant
known whieh fixes its colour. The colours
obtained from madder and indigo are generally
permanent, but in brightness they are inferior
to dyes from Europe.
The majority of substances used in dyeing
are produced from the vegetable kingdom, a
few only being minerals,
The apparatus employed is simple and in-
expensive. A few pans, earthen pots, and
jars, and cloth Alters constitute the principal
’items in a dyer’s workshop.
The following is a list of the colours com-
monly produced on cotton cloth, and of the
substances used in the production of each :—
“Kusumbi” (crimson). Not permanent.
Articles used are: safflower and lime juice.
A watery infusion of the safflower being pre-
pared, to it lime juice is added, and the cloth
steeped and dyed therein.
“ Gulinar ” (like the flower of the pome
granate—scarlet). Not permanent. Articles
used : safflower, the yellow part of the flower
of nyctanthes arbortristis, and lime juice.
Process : the wet cloth is steeped in a cold
watery solution of safflower, then dried, next
steeped in a solution of nyctanthes flowers, to
which lime juice is added.
“ Gulabi” (pale rose colour). Not perma
nent. Articles used : safflower and lime juice.
Process : the wetted cloth steeped in a mixed
solution of safflower and lime juice.
“ Phula-Gulabi ” (rose colour). Not per
manent. Articles used : safflower and lime
juice. Process : steep the wetted cloth firstly
in a solution of safflower, and afterwards in a
solution of lime juice. Then dry.
“ Kirinaji ” (kermez colour). Not perma
nent. Articles used : safflower, kermez, lime
juice, and tamarisk galls. Process : steep
the cloth in solution of safflower, dry, and
steep in decoction of kermez, to which lime
juice and tamarisk gall decoction is added;
then dry.
“ Kirsani ” (very pale lilac colour). Not
permanent. Articles used : safflower, indigo,
and lime juice. Process : the cloth is first
steeped in a solution of safflower, then in a
dilute solution of indigo, and lastly in dilute
lime juice.
“ Jambali ” (purple). Not permanent.
Articles used : indigo, safflower, and lime
juice. Process : the cloth is steeped in solu
tion of indigo, then in solution of safflower,
to which lime juice is added.
“Abasahi” (purple, with a shade of blue).
Not permanent. Articles used : safflower,
indigo, and lime juice, or its substitute, dried
mangoes. Process : the cloth is steeped in a
solution of safflower, to which indigo and
lime juice is afterwards added.
“ Badami ” (almond shell colour). Not
permanent. Articles used : safflower, tur
meric, flowers of butea frondosa, and lime
juice. Process: the cloth is first dyed in
safflower solution, then in that of turmeric,
then in lime juice, and lastly in solution of
butea flowers, each solution being treated
separately.
“ Motiya ” (very pale pink). Not perma
nent. Articles used : safflower and lime