MAK

Volltext: A classified and descriptive catalogue of the Indian department, Vienna Universal Exhibition 1873

144 
No. 460. “ Hutheewith stand. Dharwar. 
Used when spinning spools for tlie shuttle. 
Government of Bombay. 
467. “Modeej” in three pieces. Dharwar. 
For making up hanks of thread for “ kunkees 
or small reels for weaving. The two blocks of 
wood are placed at a proper distance apart. 
The thread is then arranged round the pegs 
of one block to those of the other, and then 
wound off on to the third part, whieh is a 
“ huthee ” or hand-reel. 
459. “Assara;” for winding twist. Khandeish. 
For arranging thread in hanks or skein. 
Scale of one-half. 
452. “ Tanvat.” Poona. 
For making up large hanks or skeins of twist 
for sale. 
456. “Wuttee.” Rope-makingmachine. Dharwar. 
465. “Koonchee.” Weaver’s brush. 
Weaver’s brush, full size. Used along the 
twist or warp stretched on the “ hoodiathur 
or “ tiotee ” for removing dust, smoothing and 
arranging the threads, and eqnally distributing 
the size which has just been applied. 
468-470. Models of the hand-looms, “ Mag,” in use 
in Surat, Khandeish, and Sind. 
H. H. the Rao of Kutch, G.C.S.I. 
451, 466. Machines for spinning and weaving, from 
Kutch. 
Samples of Materials used for Dyeing. 
Collector of Etawah, N.W. Provinces. 
517-531. “ Kussoom ” (carthamus tinctorius), 
“ Hurra ” myrobalans, “ Har singar” (flowers of 
weeping nyctanthes), “ Kussees ” (sulphus ferrse), 
“ Majoophul ” (gall nuts), “Dhak” (flowers of 
butea frondosa), “Anar” (pomegranate rind), 
“ Huldee ” (turmeric), Sujjee (mineral alkali), 
“ Nil ” (indigo,“ Russee ” (saline efflorescence from 
the earth, “ Mooltanee mittee ” (yellow ochre), 
“ Gerroo ” (red ochre), “Sootea” (blue vitriol), 
“ Kutha.” 
532. Specimens of colours (26), produced from the 
above. 
Collector of Cawnpore, N.W. Provinces. 
533. “ Aal ” root. Used for dyeing cloth. 
Berar Local Committee. 
534. Samples of dyes (5); used in Berar. 
Dr. Bhau Daji, Bombay. 
535. Four boxes of dyes. Used in the Western 
Presidency. 
Dr. Bhau Daji furnishes the following notes 
on dyeing substances and processes as used and 
practised in Western India :— 
The art of dyeing is in its infancy in this 
country. It is rudely practised, and is 
capable of much improvement. The colours 
imparted are of great variety, but they are 
generally not permanent. This is owing to 
the sad want of Chemical knowledge. The 
mordant principally used is alum ; the use of 
the salts of tin and lead is entirely unknown 
to native dyers. All the shades of red, from 
scarlet downwards, produced from safflower are 
not permanent, from there being no mordant 
known whieh fixes its colour. The colours 
obtained from madder and indigo are generally 
permanent, but in brightness they are inferior 
to dyes from Europe. 
The majority of substances used in dyeing 
are produced from the vegetable kingdom, a 
few only being minerals, 
The apparatus employed is simple and in- 
expensive. A few pans, earthen pots, and 
jars, and cloth Alters constitute the principal 
’items in a dyer’s workshop. 
The following is a list of the colours com- 
monly produced on cotton cloth, and of the 
substances used in the production of each :— 
“Kusumbi” (crimson). Not permanent. 
Articles used are: safflower and lime juice. 
A watery infusion of the safflower being pre- 
pared, to it lime juice is added, and the cloth 
steeped and dyed therein. 
“ Gulinar ” (like the flower of the pome 
granate—scarlet). Not permanent. Articles 
used : safflower, the yellow part of the flower 
of nyctanthes arbortristis, and lime juice. 
Process : the wet cloth is steeped in a cold 
watery solution of safflower, then dried, next 
steeped in a solution of nyctanthes flowers, to 
which lime juice is added. 
“ Gulabi” (pale rose colour). Not perma 
nent. Articles used : safflower and lime juice. 
Process : the wetted cloth steeped in a mixed 
solution of safflower and lime juice. 
“ Phula-Gulabi ” (rose colour). Not per 
manent. Articles used : safflower and lime 
juice. Process : steep the wetted cloth firstly 
in a solution of safflower, and afterwards in a 
solution of lime juice. Then dry. 
“ Kirinaji ” (kermez colour). Not perma 
nent. Articles used : safflower, kermez, lime 
juice, and tamarisk galls. Process : steep 
the cloth in solution of safflower, dry, and 
steep in decoction of kermez, to which lime 
juice and tamarisk gall decoction is added; 
then dry. 
“ Kirsani ” (very pale lilac colour). Not 
permanent. Articles used : safflower, indigo, 
and lime juice. Process : the cloth is first 
steeped in a solution of safflower, then in a 
dilute solution of indigo, and lastly in dilute 
lime juice. 
“ Jambali ” (purple). Not permanent. 
Articles used : indigo, safflower, and lime 
juice. Process : the cloth is steeped in solu 
tion of indigo, then in solution of safflower, 
to which lime juice is added. 
“Abasahi” (purple, with a shade of blue). 
Not permanent. Articles used : safflower, 
indigo, and lime juice, or its substitute, dried 
mangoes. Process : the cloth is steeped in a 
solution of safflower, to which indigo and 
lime juice is afterwards added. 
“ Badami ” (almond shell colour). Not 
permanent. Articles used : safflower, tur 
meric, flowers of butea frondosa, and lime 
juice. Process: the cloth is first dyed in 
safflower solution, then in that of turmeric, 
then in lime juice, and lastly in solution of 
butea flowers, each solution being treated 
separately. 
“ Motiya ” (very pale pink). Not perma 
nent. Articles used : safflower and lime
	        
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