151
“ Raintea.” Spinning-wheel. Mr. Sheoshankar
Narayan, Bombay.
The woman on the right cards the cotton into
rolls and hands them to the Spinner; after the
bohbin is full the yarn is re-wound on to a
swift.
“ Raintea.” Spinning-wheel. Mr. W. G. Stretton,
Bombay.
The wheel is turned by means of a handle
with the right hand, whilst with the left, which
holds the eotton, the thread is spun on to the
reel.
Yarn-winding Machine. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan,
Bombay.
This shows the proeess of winding the yarn
from the bobbin in preparation for reeling; the
axle of the swift is placed perpendienlarly on
the ground, and kept in rapid motion by a dex-
terous touch of the third and fourth fingers of
the left hand.
Machine preparing thread for the loom. Mr. W. G.
Stretton, Bombay.
The thread when taken off the spinning-reel
is wound on to a larger reel, which is held in
the left hand. Five small stakes are driven into
the ground, No. 1, being the starting point, is
rather shorter than the other four, which are
placed in the form of a square. The unwinding
then commences from No. 1 stäke, and passes
round the other four, first under, then over, back
to No. 1, and so on until the whole is reeled off
into the form of a skein ready for the cleaner.
Reeling machine. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bom
bay.
The thread when taken off the spinning-reel
is wound on to a larger reel, which is held in
the left hand. Five short stakes are placed in
the ground, the distance apart being regulated
hy the required length of the skein.
Frame XIV.
Dressing the skein. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan,
Bombay.
The stareh or size (usually of coarse flour) is
laid on with a small broom made of date-tree
leaves; a large brush made of cocoa-nut fibre is
then applied backwards and forwards along the
threads until the whole is distributed.
Cleaning the thread. Mr. W. G. Stretton, Bombay.
Ä skein containing the requisite number of
threads is fastened firmly to fixed points, and,
being separated by small sticks, is supported by
cross-sticks, somewhat in the fashion of a tight
rope. The eleaner then takes his brush, which is
made of cocoa-nut fibre, and dipping it in a pre
paration of flour and water passes it steadily up
and down the entire length of the skein, using at
the same time one of the small dividing sticks to
facilitate the Operation'.
Photograph, showing the proeess of starching the
yarn previous to weaving. Messrs. Michie & Co.,
Kurrachee.
The loom. “ Sah” Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan,
Bombay.
The lower half of the weaver’s body is in a
hole at the bottom, at which the treadles are
worked. As the cloth is manufactured it is
wound on the beam by slightly easing the rope
on the right hand and turning round the lever.
The weaver. Mr. W. G. Stretton, Bombay.
Represents the weaver sitting on the ground
with his legs in a kind of well or hole sufficiently
large to contain the lower portion of the machi-
nery, which is worked on the pedal principle
with the toes, the combs being supported by
ropes attached to beams in the roof working
over pulleys, and stretching down into the well
to the toes of the weaver. In the weaver’s right
hand is the shuttle, which contains the thread,
and which, passed rapidly through the spaces
created by the comhs, forms the pattem. The
principal comb is held in the left hand. In
the making of elaborate cloths a boy assists, as
the ropes and smaller combs are greatly in-
creased in number, and the whole apparatus is
much complicated.
Showing looms at work. Messrs. Michie & Co.,
Kurrachee.
Interior of Ahmed Hajee Abdoola’s house at
Kurrachee, showing looms at work.
Printing. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bombay.
This is done hy wooden stamps, which are
charged with the colouring matter, and applied
one after the other as the design may require.
Dyeing. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bombay.
The vats are of clay, and built in as shown in
the picture. The furnace goes right under the
vat, the fuel used being the outer integument
of the cocoa-nut.
B.—COTTON FABRICS.
Madras Committee.
A cotton head-cloth. Coimbatore.
“ Saree.” Dark cotton, with gold edging. Coim
batore.
“ Saree.” White, with gold lace. Madura,
The “ Saree,” the chief article of female attire
in India, consists of a long shawl, which both
envelopes the body and acts as a covering for
the head. It is the common dress of Hindu
women of all ranks, as well as that of a large
Proportion of Mahomedans. With respect to
the materials of which the Saree is made, cotton
naturally holds the first place, then mixtures of
cotton and silk, silk itself, and lastly wool.
Dhotees(4). White; goldlacedandplain. Madura.
The “ Dhotee ” is the usual male attire of the
poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus. It
consists simply of a piece of eloth which is
wrapped round the loins.
“ Packadi” or Cholee. Madura.
The “ Cholee ” is the bodice worn by Hindu
and Mahomedan women, consisting of a closely
fitting jacket with short sleeves.