MAK

Volltext: A classified and descriptive catalogue of the Indian department, Vienna Universal Exhibition 1873

151 
“ Raintea.” Spinning-wheel. Mr. Sheoshankar 
Narayan, Bombay. 
The woman on the right cards the cotton into 
rolls and hands them to the Spinner; after the 
bohbin is full the yarn is re-wound on to a 
swift. 
“ Raintea.” Spinning-wheel. Mr. W. G. Stretton, 
Bombay. 
The wheel is turned by means of a handle 
with the right hand, whilst with the left, which 
holds the eotton, the thread is spun on to the 
reel. 
Yarn-winding Machine. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, 
Bombay. 
This shows the proeess of winding the yarn 
from the bobbin in preparation for reeling; the 
axle of the swift is placed perpendienlarly on 
the ground, and kept in rapid motion by a dex- 
terous touch of the third and fourth fingers of 
the left hand. 
Machine preparing thread for the loom. Mr. W. G. 
Stretton, Bombay. 
The thread when taken off the spinning-reel 
is wound on to a larger reel, which is held in 
the left hand. Five small stakes are driven into 
the ground, No. 1, being the starting point, is 
rather shorter than the other four, which are 
placed in the form of a square. The unwinding 
then commences from No. 1 stäke, and passes 
round the other four, first under, then over, back 
to No. 1, and so on until the whole is reeled off 
into the form of a skein ready for the cleaner. 
Reeling machine. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bom 
bay. 
The thread when taken off the spinning-reel 
is wound on to a larger reel, which is held in 
the left hand. Five short stakes are placed in 
the ground, the distance apart being regulated 
hy the required length of the skein. 
Frame XIV. 
Dressing the skein. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, 
Bombay. 
The stareh or size (usually of coarse flour) is 
laid on with a small broom made of date-tree 
leaves; a large brush made of cocoa-nut fibre is 
then applied backwards and forwards along the 
threads until the whole is distributed. 
Cleaning the thread. Mr. W. G. Stretton, Bombay. 
Ä skein containing the requisite number of 
threads is fastened firmly to fixed points, and, 
being separated by small sticks, is supported by 
cross-sticks, somewhat in the fashion of a tight 
rope. The eleaner then takes his brush, which is 
made of cocoa-nut fibre, and dipping it in a pre 
paration of flour and water passes it steadily up 
and down the entire length of the skein, using at 
the same time one of the small dividing sticks to 
facilitate the Operation'. 
Photograph, showing the proeess of starching the 
yarn previous to weaving. Messrs. Michie & Co., 
Kurrachee. 
The loom. “ Sah” Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, 
Bombay. 
The lower half of the weaver’s body is in a 
hole at the bottom, at which the treadles are 
worked. As the cloth is manufactured it is 
wound on the beam by slightly easing the rope 
on the right hand and turning round the lever. 
The weaver. Mr. W. G. Stretton, Bombay. 
Represents the weaver sitting on the ground 
with his legs in a kind of well or hole sufficiently 
large to contain the lower portion of the machi- 
nery, which is worked on the pedal principle 
with the toes, the combs being supported by 
ropes attached to beams in the roof working 
over pulleys, and stretching down into the well 
to the toes of the weaver. In the weaver’s right 
hand is the shuttle, which contains the thread, 
and which, passed rapidly through the spaces 
created by the comhs, forms the pattem. The 
principal comb is held in the left hand. In 
the making of elaborate cloths a boy assists, as 
the ropes and smaller combs are greatly in- 
creased in number, and the whole apparatus is 
much complicated. 
Showing looms at work. Messrs. Michie & Co., 
Kurrachee. 
Interior of Ahmed Hajee Abdoola’s house at 
Kurrachee, showing looms at work. 
Printing. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bombay. 
This is done hy wooden stamps, which are 
charged with the colouring matter, and applied 
one after the other as the design may require. 
Dyeing. Mr. Sheoshankar Narayan, Bombay. 
The vats are of clay, and built in as shown in 
the picture. The furnace goes right under the 
vat, the fuel used being the outer integument 
of the cocoa-nut. 
B.—COTTON FABRICS. 
Madras Committee. 
A cotton head-cloth. Coimbatore. 
“ Saree.” Dark cotton, with gold edging. Coim 
batore. 
“ Saree.” White, with gold lace. Madura, 
The “ Saree,” the chief article of female attire 
in India, consists of a long shawl, which both 
envelopes the body and acts as a covering for 
the head. It is the common dress of Hindu 
women of all ranks, as well as that of a large 
Proportion of Mahomedans. With respect to 
the materials of which the Saree is made, cotton 
naturally holds the first place, then mixtures of 
cotton and silk, silk itself, and lastly wool. 
Dhotees(4). White; goldlacedandplain. Madura. 
The “ Dhotee ” is the usual male attire of the 
poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus. It 
consists simply of a piece of eloth which is 
wrapped round the loins. 
“ Packadi” or Cholee. Madura. 
The “ Cholee ” is the bodice worn by Hindu 
and Mahomedan women, consisting of a closely 
fitting jacket with short sleeves.
	        
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