160
Silk piece. “ Kanawez.” Shaded purple and green.
Peshawur district.
“ Kanawez ” is the native name for plain
shot silk.
Silk ])ieees (4). Striped and cliecked. From La-
hore.
“ Loongees,” shoulder cloths (8). From Multan.
Silk pieces (2). For turbans. Five yards each.
Multan.
Dr. Leitner, Labore.
Silk fabrics, handkercbiefs, and scarfs from Bokhara,
Khotan, and Yarkand.
The manufacture of silk is the ocoupation of
every Turki household from China to the Sea
of Marmora, near where (at Brnssa) the best
silk is still produced. Bokhara silkworms are
mueh prized, but have not yet suoceeded in the
Panjab or Asia Minor. (Attempts are now made
in Kashmir to domiciliate the silkworm.) The
Japanese worm, which is of an inferior kind,
seems to get acclimatized in Asia Minor, and
should be tried in the Panjab and Cashmere.
These fabrics are interesting as indicating
the taste of the Central Asiatics as regards the
price they are willing to pay and the patterns
which they affeet, and which might be looked
at in eonnexion with Wereschgin’s striking
Central Asian pictures at the Crystal Palace
(Dr. Leitner).
Chamba Mal, Amritsar.
Galbadan.” Striped silk (1 piece).
Madras Committee.
Gown pieces (3), Salayada, Maganarnam, and
Kutiny. From Tanjore, obtained by M. R. Ry.
A Streenevasa Row.
Silk carpet. From Tanjore, obtained by M. R. Ry.
A. Streenevasa Row.
Silk thread (4 samples). Kistna district.
Silk pieces (2). White and red. Kistna district.
“ Zamaivar.” Silk cloth (1 piece). Tanjore.
Silk turban cloth with gold fringe. Coimbatore.
Silk “ sarees ” (2). Female dress. Madura and
Tanjore.
Silk “ cholees ” (3). From Tangore.
The “ cholee,” or bodice, is a closely-fitting
jacket with sleeves, either covering the breast
only or having a back attached to it as well.
Silk handkerchief. Coimbatore.
Mysore Local Committee.
“ Sarees ” (30). Hindu female attire.
_ These fabrics consist of silk, or a mixture of
silk cotton, and are either plain or adorned with
gold lace, stripes, &c.
“Kuppasas” (4). Used by Hindu women for
bodices.
“ Kummerbunds ” (3). Waistcloth worn by men.
Vincent, Robinson, & Co., London.
A silk rüg. 7 ft. 2 in. x 3 ft. 10 in.
SECTION V.-EMBROIDERIES; GOLD AND SILVER WEBS; LACE
AND LOOSE WOVEN FABRICS; FRINGE WORK, &c. &c.
Madras Committee.
Turbans (2). Gold embroidered. Madras.
Children's caps (2). Gold embroidered. Madras.
Net dress. Embroidered. Madras.
Muslin dress. Embroidered with beetle wings.
Madras.
Muslin (embroidered with gold). 2 pieces, Madras.
Saddle cloth. Velvet embroidered with gold.
Madras.
“ Musnud ” (gold embroidered). Consisting of a
“ Tursh ” (carpet), one large and two small.
“ Tukiyas ” (pillows). Madras.
Ediyengudi Mission School, Madras.
Lace (8 specimens).
A “ Bertha.” Black and gold lace.
Bombay Committee.
“ Kinkhaub.” Gold and silver brocade. (10
pieces). From Surat and Ahmedabad.
“ Hemroo ” (single and double), 3 pieces. Surat.
“ Luppa ” (6 pieces). Ahmedabad.
“ Kinkob,” “ Hemroo,” “ Luppa,” are all of
the same Order of manufacture, gold, or gold
and silver and silk. In the “ Kinkob,” metal
predominates, whereas in the “ Hemroo,” the
silk predominates. Another of the latter’s
characteristics is that the design is generally a
diaper or “ Boota.” Affixes of “single” and
“ double ” are also made use of to designate one
colour or several, such as Ekowdu Hemroo and
Bewdu, Hemroo. In Surat it is known as
“ Kumjurno Aleeacha,” which means that there
is only a small quantity of gold thread used in
it. “ Luppa ” is all gold or silver, that is, the
metal only is visible.
“ Kinaree ” (18 pieces). From Ahmedabad and
Kattyawar. Gold, silver, and silk edging for
sarees, cholees, &c.
Silk and gold cloth. From Surat.
Silk pieces (7). “ Gaut.” From Kattyawar.
Silk piece, rieh Paythani green. Fron Yeola,
“ Oopermee,” Head dress. Red silk with gold
border. Kattyawar.
Caps (2). Velvet embroidered with gold and silver.
Bombay.
Veils (2). Silk. From Aden.
Sarees (3). Women’s dress. Of silk, and silk and
cotton with gold border. From Bombay, Yeola,
and Surat.
“ Shaloo.” Woman’s garment. Green silk with
gold border. From Kattyawar.
“ Mushroos ” (2). Used as a Ghagra. Ahmedabad.
The Ghagra is a skirt worn by women from
Malwa, Guzerat, Kattyawar, and Kutch; also
by Purbhoo girls in Bombay, fastened by a band
round the waist and reaching the ankles. The
Ghagra and Cholee are comparatively modern
innovations, adopted by Hindoo and Jain
women from the Mahomedans. In the south
of India it is the populär belief that women
were made to bare their breasts to win back the