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Full text: A classified and descriptive catalogue of the Indian department, Vienna Universal Exhibition 1873

SECTION VI.—LINEN, ARTICLES OP CLOTHING, FÜR, HATS 
AND BONNETS, GLOVES. 
Madras Committee. 
Slippers (1 pair). Used by Mahomedan ladies. 
Madras. 
Bombay Committee. 
Collection of turbans and caps (50). From Bombay. 
The turban, or “ pagri,” is in almost universal 
use throughout India. It is the only article 
of dress which indicates the caste and race of 
the wearer, and there are numerous varieties, 
which take special names from their size and 
shape, and thematerials of which they are made. 
Many castes and raees have a peculiarhead dress. 
The Konkani Brahmin has on his head a disc of 
artfully folded red calico, three or four feet in dia- 
meter; the Bhatia has the tip of his turban 
curled up above his forehead, like a rhinoceros 
horn; the Sikh has a closely fitting and neatly 
folded turban; the fisherman’s turban is usually 
made out of a piece of old fishing net; and a 
Mahratta’s head dress looks like a bündle of 
tightly twisted snakes. Of the materials em- 
ployed in the manufacture of turbans, cotton 
naturally occupies the first place, as being the 
cheapest and most abundant. It also has the 
merit of being a good non-conductor and of 
permitting at the same time the free escape of 
perspiration. Silk and wool are also used to 
some extent, the former by the higher classes. 
Of the colours employed, white takes by far the 
most prominent position ; red comes next, then 
yellow, green, blue, purple, and occasionally 
even black; the darker colours being almost 
invariably relieved by embroidery. Particular 
colours are sometimes used on special occasions. 
Turbans of a snuff colour are worn only by 
Borees before marriage. A turban of a brown 
colour is worn in the Mofusil on the occasion 
of marriage, but in. Bombay only during the 
first year after the death of either parent. 
The turban in its unfolded condition ordinarily 
consists of a strip of cloth varying in breadth 
from 9 to 12 inches, and in length from 15 to 25 
yards. 
In some cases, however, the breadth extends 
to 36 inches, while the length occasionally 
reaches to 60 yards. 
Collection of shoes and sandals (108 pairs) from 
Surat, Bombay, Kattyawar, Aden, and Kutch. 
(Contributed in part by Messrs. Ahmedbeen 
Mahomed, Haji Gama, Girdhur Lalla, and Mer- 
jajee.) 
Another Illustration of the great number and 
diversity of the tribes found in India is afforded 
by the curious variety of shoes worn. Thus we 
have shoes suited for the snows and mountain 
paths of the Himalaya; broad strong shoes for the 
frontier warlike tribe; wooden “ powdees ” worn 
by the Hindus of Surat when entering fnto their 
temples to worship (worn also by Mahomedans); 
coarse sandals of wood and leather used by 
native cultivators and labourers ; delicate little 
shoes of silk and velvet embroidered with gold, 
worn by native ladies; and lastly, the imported 
patent leather boot, now esteemed by the smarter 
dass of office baboos. 
Mat caps and cotton head cloth. Worn by people 
of Aden and the.neighbouring countries. 
Embroidered hood or mask, and embroidered cloth 
(4 pieces). Worn by the women of Aden and 
surrounding countries. 
Waistcoat richly embroidered. From Poona. 
“ Butwas ” (3). Woollen bags in which the natives 
keep their betel-nuts and betel-pepper leaves. 
From Poona. 
H.H. the Guickwar of Baroda. 
Hat, coat, and trowsers. Richly embroidered. 
Shoes (8 pairs). Embroidered with gold, silver, and 
silk. 
Bengal Committee. 
Caps (2). “Topi.” From Sylhet. 
Shoes. “Jootha.” From Sylhet. 
Slippers. From Cachar. 
N.W. Provinces Local Committee. 
Caps (12) and turbans (3). From Allahabad. 
Suits of clothes (12). For both sexes. Allahabad. 
“ Burga.” Veil worn by Kashmiri women. Allaha 
bad. 
The “ burka ” or “ burga ” is not a veil, 
but a cylindrical bag for the head, with holes 
covered with hetwork, through which the wearer 
sees and breathes, a pleated skirt attached to the 
head bag covers the whole figure downwards. 
The woman so encased looks like a mummy, and 
is of course in visible to eyes profane. The whole 
dress is made of coarse white cloth. 
“ Chudder ” or wrapper. For women. Allahabad. 
Shoes (12 pairs). For both sexes. From Allahabad. 
Dr. Leitner, Lahore. 
Dresses, caps,^ girdles, boots, stockings, &e. from 
Dardistan, 1 ibet, Central Asia, and Northern India, 
Under this head fall many of the articles 
described in the Ethnographical Catalogue of 
Curiosities, to which have now been added a list 
of Indian articles. 
Bengal Local Committee. 
8,032-3. Gloves and stockings from Chittagong. 
Mysore Local Committee. 
Turban, silk with gold stripes. 
Coorg head-dress. 
N.W. Provinces Local Committee. 
Pugrees or turbans (5). Benares and Boolund- 
shuhan. 
Indore Local Committee. 
Leopard and buffalo skins. 
Colonel Michael, London. 
Rugs (3). Tiger skin, bear skin, and leopard skin.
	        
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