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Full text : A classified and descriptive catalogue of the Indian department, Vienna Universal Exhibition 1873

Mrs.  Rt  vttt-Carnac.

Collection  of  Ornaments  worn  bt  the  Natives  op  India.  (From  the  London  Exhibition
of  1872.)  The  jewellery  in  this  Collection  is  of  glass  and  gilt.

A.—HEAD  ORNAMENTS.
1.  “  Seethee  ”  or  “  Bindee.”  Head  Ornament.  Worn
by  Hindoo  and  Mahomedan  women  in  Upper
India.
This  specimen  is  made  in  lae,  and  is  worn  by
the  lower  classes  only.  It  is  an  Imitation  of  the
costly  gold  and  jewelled  Ornaments  of  a  similar
shape  worn  by  the  rieh.  The  centre  point  falls
back  over  the  hair,  and  the  rosettes  are  fastened
into  the  ears.  These  lae  Ornaments  are  much
worn  in  Bundelcund  (Central  India).  The  lae
bracelets  in  this  Collection  are  worn  by  the  same
classes.  Stick  lac  is  proeured  in  the  jungles,
and  is  manufactured  in  the  towns  and  villages.
There  are  large  manufactories  of  shell  lac  under
European  superintendence  at  Jubbulpore  and
Mirzapore.  A  considerable  quantity  of  shell
lac  is  annually  exported  from  India  via  Calcutta
  and  Bombay.
2.  “  Seethee  ”  or  “  Bindee.”  A  head  ornament  in
silver  similar  to  the  above,  and  worn  chiefly  by
Hindoos.
The  triangulär  centre-piece  hangs  over  the
forehead,  and  is  fastened  back  into  the  hair  by
the  chain  and  hook.  The  large  bosses  are
fixed  into  the  ears.
3.  “  Bandnee.”
Head  ornament  somewhat  similar  to  the
above-mentioned  ones,  made  of  pewter,  worn
by  the  lower  classes  of  Hindoos  only.  The
higher  classes  wear  similar  patterns  in  gold  and
silver.
6.  “  Seethee  ”  or  “  Seventee.”  This  is  an  imitation
pearl  and  diamond  head-dress  worn  by  Hindoo
women.
The  pattern  is  supposed  to  represent  the
blossom  of  the  “  seventee,”  a  flower  much  used
in  their  religious  ceremonies.  It  is  worn  in  the
same  manner  as  the  before-mentioned  headdresses.
  These  imitation  Ornaments  are  chiefly
manufactured  in  Delhi,  Benares,  and  other
large  cities.
7.  “  Seethee  ”  or  “  Seventee.”
Pendant  imitation  jewel,  worn  singly  on  the
forehead,  by  both  Mahomedans  and  Hindoos,
but  as  a  rule  worn  by  the  children,  both  girls
and  boys.
8.  9.  “  Bindees.”
Worn  by  all  classes,  but  more  especially  by
the  Mahomedans.
10.  “Jumka.”
Worn  by  Hindoo  women  in  the  Hills;  the
chains  are  worn  across  the  head,  the  bell-ends
fall  over  the  ears.
11.  “  Jumka.”
Worn  by  Hindoo  and  Mahomedan  women,
twisted  in  the  back  hair.  This  is  a  lac  imitation ­
  of  the  more  costly  kinds.
12,13,14,15.  “Juma.”
Jewelled  Ornaments.  Worn  by  Mahomedan
women,  falling  low  over  the  forehead.

IG.  “Juma.”  A  similar  ornament  in  gilt  and  turquoise.

A  very  handsome  jewelled  one  displayed  by  a
Benares  jeweller  had,  as  pendants,  repetitions
of  an  open  hand,  the  crescent  and  a  star,  and  a
feeble  imitation  of  these  designs  may  be  traced
in  the  ornament  here  exhibited.
17,  18.  “  Bij.”  Worn  chiefly  by  Hindoo  women
in  Bundelcund,  fastened  into  the  hair.
These  specimens  are  in  lac,  and  belong  to  the
same  dass  of  Ornaments  as  the  “  seethee  ”  and
bracelets  mentioned  above.
19,  1,  2,  3.  “  Kaitucks.”  Worn  by  Hindoo  women
only.
They  are  composed  of  three  different  Ornaments ­
  ;  the  round  boss  is  worn  in  the  centre  of
the  hair,  on  the  top  of  the  head  ;  the  leaf-shaped
and  crescent-shaped  Ornaments  are  worn  in
front,  towards  the  forehead.  These  Ornaments
are  chiefly  worn  in  the  Maharatta  country.
20,  “  Rakhdee.”
This  is  the  centre  piece  of  the  “  kaituck,”  and
is  worn,  as  already  stated,  by  Maharattas  and
Madrassee  women.  The  latter  often  wear  from
eight  to  sixteen  smaller  circles  dotted  about
their  back  hair.  They  are  fastened  into  the
hair,  sometimes  by  a  spring  or  spiral  twist,
sometimes  by  a  metal  loop  through  which  is
passed  a  small  plaited  piece  of  hair.  Hair  pins,
save  as  silver  Ornaments,  are  unknown.
21,  “  Parak.”  Turquoise  head-dress.  Worn  by
Ladak  and  Thibetan  women.
This  head-dress,  somewhat  in  the  shape  of  a
cohra’s  liood,  is  worn  falling  back  from  the
forehead  over  the  head,  often  to  the  waist,
ioaded  with  turquoise  in  the  rough,  and  quaint
cornelian  brooches  often  engraved.  A  “parak  ”
is  a  lady’s  dower,  and  until  she  has  one  of
ordinary  dimensions,  a  girl  is  supposed  not  to
marry.  The  hair  is  plaited  into  long  thin  wisps
intermingled  to  lengthen  it  with  false  hair  made
of  wool;  the  different  plaits  meet  at  the  waist,
and  there  forming  one  single  plait,  they  fall  to
the  ankles,  ending  in  a  bunch  of  artificial  hair
similar  to  the  tuft  on  a  cow’s  tail.
22,  24.  .  Silver  head-dress.
Worn  by  the  Hindoo  women  in  the  Koolu
valley  and  other  parts  of  the  Himalaya.  The
silver  boss  and  tassel  hang  down  on  the  side
of  the  head.
25.  .  Silver  pig-tail.
Worn  twisted  into  the  back  hair,  by  both
Hindoos  and  Mahomedans.
23,  26,  27.  Head  Ornaments.
28,  29.  “  Kunthia.”
Worn  by  Hindoo  and  Mahomedan  women,
drooping  over  the  side  of  the  head,  and  usually
attached  by  its  chains  to  an  equal  number  of
ear-rings.
30,31.  “Kunthia.”
Commoner  specimens  of  the  same  ornament.
            
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