79
kurry (? Tetranthera quadriflora); Soom (Tetran
thera sp.); Soonhalloo (Tetranthera macrophylla);
Digluttee (Tetranthera diglottica); Pattee-hoonda
(Laurus obtusifolia). The coeoon is large, and the
silk which is coarsely reeled, varies from white
to fawn colour, that produced frora the' worm
reared on the Champa (Michelia sp.) being the
whitest and most esteemed. Fifty thousand
cocoons (a good yield for an acre of ground) are
estimated to yield upwards of 12 seers of silk, valued
at frora 31 to 12 rupees per seer. The silk forms
one of the chief exports of Assam, and leaves the
country principally in the shape of thread, most of
it going to Berhampore. The total quantity pro
duced in the provinee may be estimated at from 600
to 700 maunds, of which the greater portion is
generally reserved by the Assamese for their own use.
11. Attacus Ricini (Eria silkworn). Worms, cocoons,
moths, &c. Assam.
The Eria or Arindy silkworm (Attacus Ricini) is
reared in Assam, and certain districts to the South
west of that provinee.
The worms which are reared chiefly in the houses
of low caste Hindoos, Mekirs, and Cacharees, are
fed principally on the leaves of the castor oil plant
(Ricinus communis), and yield seven or more broods
in the year. The silk is generally of a light rust
colour, sometimes white, and is carded, not reeled
in consequenee of the resinous nature of the binding
matrix of the coeoon.
The use of the silk is chiefly local.
The district of Durrung alone produces 1,000
maunds annually, which is valued at 2 to 3 rupees
the seer.
B.—WOOL.
Pashm, or Shawl-wool, properly so-called, is a I
downy substance growing next the skin and under
the thiek hair of the goats inhabiting Tibet and
other elevated regions to the north of the Himalayas.
It is obtained in the following manner :—the hair of
the goat is first cut short with a knife in the direction
of its growth, or from the head towards the tail; a
kind of comb is then passed in the reverse direction,
and brings away the finer wool almost unmixed with
the coarse hair. It is cut onee a year, and if not
shorn as the summer commences the animals tliem-
selves rub off the wool. The Pashm is of three
colours, white, drab, and dark grey.
It comes almost entirelyfrom Yarkand and Chang-
than (Chinese Tibet). From the former country is
brought the fine Turfani wool, which is the most
valuable. By ancient custom and engagements the
export of tliis wool, until recently, was exchisively
confined to Kashmir, it being a monopoly of the
Maharaja of that country, and all attempts to convey
it to otiier countries were punished by confisoation.
In like manner it was considered illegal in Rodokh
and Changthan to allow a trade in shawl-wool
except through Ladakh. Prior to 1867 none of the
fine Turfani pashm was allowed to pass through the
Maharaja’s territory into the British provinces. The
Amritsur and Ludianah looms were consequently
worked chiefly with a fine sheep’s wool from Kerman,
called wahab shahi, which, however, by no means
comes up in softness and other qualities to the
shawl-goat’s down.
A considerable amount of pashm from Changthan
always comes down to the Punjab, but this is much
inferior to that of Turkistan. In these days a good
deal of shawl-wool is brought by different paths on
sheep to Rampur, and sent from thence to the Kash
mir colonies of the Punjab, Rampur being a great
mart for the reception and forwarding of wool; but
even now, wben free importation of shawl-wool is
allowed, the cheaper Kermani wool still holds its own
with the Punjab weavers, hence the greater part of it
still goes to Kashmir. This is one of the reasons for
the inferiority of the shawls made in the British pro
vinces to the beautiful fabrics of the Kashmir
valley.
This industry was seriously affected by the late
Franoo-German war, and pashm of all kinds sank in
value. Lately, however, the trade has revived, the
supplies in the market being now insufficient.
In 1870 the amount of pashm or shawl-wool im-
ported into Leh in Ladakh was as follows :—
Pure white pashm from Yarkand 198 maunds ;
pure white pashm from Changthan, 794 maunds,
valued (at the current rate of Rs. 60 per maund of
80 lbs.) at Rs. 59,526; black pashm to the extent of
92 maunds, valued at Rs. 40 per maund, at Rs. 3,680.
In the same year the amount of pashm exported from
Ladakh to the Punjab was as follows : via Kullu,
12 maunds, and via Kashmir, 24 maunds.
Sheeps’ wool is largely used in the textile manu-
factures of India, and in addition constitutes an
important article of export. Nevertheless the quan
tity of wool actually produced in India itself is com-
paratively small. The native looms of the Punjab
are therefore supplied to a great extent with wools
imported from beyond the frontier; the wool also
which is exported from India is almost entirely of
non-Indian origin.
Of the wools imported into India the finest is that
which comes from Tibet, the cold climate of that
region conferring on the fleece the peculiar fineness
of quality found in the shawl-wool of the Tibetan
goat. Large quantities of wool are imported into
Leh in Ladakh from Changthan. 'The most impor
tant varieties of wool imported from the N.W.
frontier are ;—
Ist; that of the Rumba, a large-tailed sheep com
mon in Cabul, Peshawur, and other neighbouring
districts. It is used in the manufacture of the finer
sorts of Chogas, an outer robe or cloak with sleeves
worn by Aflrghans and other Mahomedans of the
Western frontier. The trade in this wool is very
extensive, both by the Peshawur and other routes;
the export trade of Karrachee and Bombay is sup
plied more especially from this source.
2nd. Wahab Shahi or Kirmani Wool, a beautiful
white soft wool produced at Kirman, a tract of
country in the South of Persia by the Persian Gulf.
Its principal use appears to be the adulteration of
genuine Pashm or goats’ wool of which Kashmere
shawls are made, and in the manufacture of a
spurious kind of shawl cloth. It is largely used in
Persia in the fabrication of “ janewars,” which have
superseded the use of Kashmere shawls in that
country.
The wool is soft and delicate, long in the staple,
and much more easily and quickly worked than the